RMNP - Longs Peak Notch Couloir & Ypsilon Y Couloir
Over the last week of May 2023 a rare thing happened… conditions, partners, ambition, and time all lined up for a couple of lines I have dreamt of skiing for years. After nearly hanging up my skis for the season, I received some reports that conditions on Longs Peak were setting up for a ski descent of the Notch Couloir in (my opinion) good style. RMNP aficionados Mike Soucy and fellow Friend of Wndr Alpine, Dan Crist, had climbed the route to access Keplinger’s just a few days prior. I reached out to Dan asking if he was interested in attempting to ski the Notch and, as it turns out, that was actually the intention on his last outing but conditions were not quite ready. Needless to say he was stoked to try again. Our schedules were cleared a few days later and the forecast looked perfect, with clear nights and diurnal temperature swings which would set up for great conditions in the couloir. On Thursday, May 25th we met at the Longs Peak Trailhead and were walking at 03:30. We were starting the traverse of Broadway Ledge at 07:30 and belayed across most of the ledge carrying our skis/board on our packs. A 40m rope worked well, however, forgetting to hand over part of the rock rack forced us to pitch it out more than we would have otherwise liked to. Upon reaching the entrance to the couloir a little more than an hour later, we chatted about our options of either turning back now while the snow on Broadway still had some strength or continuing up to the summit of Longs and a descent of the North Face. Conditions in the couloir were ripe as expected, however, the steep slope exiting the couloir proper onto the upper snowfield was getting hit hard with solar exposure by the time we arrived (~09:30) and this further deterred us from skiing the Notch. Upon arriving at the top of the Notch, we cemented our plan B to continue up and over to ski the North Face.
Steep, isothermal snow on the Broadway traverse with the 1,000’ Lower East Face cliffs below.
Dan starting the Broadway traverse
A short while later, we topped out Longs Peak and made our way down the North Face. Fun, techy skiing up high with the East Face (Diamond) looming below kept things engaging but relaxed. A short rappel got us through the rapidly melting lower step of the headwall and we skied some nice corn snow down through the boulder field and skied/slogged our way back to the trailhead.
Sometime during the day, we started to seriously consider either another attempt at the Notch or an attempt at skiing the Y Couloir on Ypsilon as we both had a few more days off. While the Notch has been a long-standing objective for me, both Dan and I had been talking about teaming up to ski the Y all season. I assumed we had missed our window for this line as it has much more sun exposure and comes into condition earlier in the spring. Dan had been keeping eyes on it from town and would be able to get a good look at it through his spotting scope the next day, though he was certain it was still filled in fairly deep. After a lazy morning of recovery and catching up on some work responsibilities, I was feeling recharged and motivated by mid-day. Dan sent over some photos of the line viewed through his scope and it looked too good to pass up. Once again, I packed up my kit and set my alarm for a 23:30 wake up. At 03:15, we had set up our car shuttle and were launching from the top of Trail Ridge Road. By 06:30 we were standing on top of Ypsilon and found an entrance through the cornice.
Ypsilon’s Y Couloir viewed from TRR. Upper red (20m) and orange (30m) lines show approximate rappels to enter. Lower red line (40m) is the new anchor we established to protect the downclimb to the main rappel. Lower orange line is the main rappel over the ice pitch (60m)
As soon as the first sun rays hit the upper slopes and cornice, the snow was softening rapidly so we wasted little time setting up the first rappel into the couloir. A 20m rappel off a boulder got us over the cornice. A second full 30m rappel put us directly into the line where we found cold and shady conditions that were keeping the snow very firm and icy. We chipped away platforms to transition and began working our way down the feature. The upper section of the couloir involved a mix of difficult jump turns and sideslipping with an ice axe for added security. Dan had to transition back to crampons at a certain point and downclimb some sections as the snow was too firm and runneled to reliably hold his single splitboard edge. One major runnel (that we had seen on the scope) became more difficult to avoid as we neared the rappel over the ice pitch choke. As we got near the choke, mid-way down the descent, the snow began to get full sun exposure and immediately transitioned from icy to isothermal and lacking stability. Due to these combined factors we established an anchor a little more than 30m above the choke (skier’s right side of the couloir) to protect the downclimb into the main rappel. Our anchor comprised two pins in suspect rock, so we downclimbed while on rappel to reach the main rappel anchor (call it a self-belayed downclimb). 30m came up about 5m short so we had to traverse across the top of the ice choke unprotected on easy, but exposed, terrain. With better conditions, this belay/rappel would not be needed but if using it plan on at least a 40m rappel to reach the lower anchor. After adding an additional stopper and new material to the existing anchor (2 old pins) above the ice pitch, we made a 60m rappel using a single hyperstatic 6mm rope and Beal Escaper which landed us far enough below the ice pitch to avoid any falling ice overhead. Still steep, the snow below the ice pitch was manky and difficult to ski but far less consequential. From here an easy cruise across Spectacle Lake had us transitioning to shoes for the scramble down to Ypsilon Lake. Once we reached the lower lake, we transitioned back to skis and skin-slogged our way down the trail through deep, isothermal mush. For this line, we paid the cost of admission on the way out! We arrived at the Lawn Lake trailhead at 16:00. Take away on this descent is that it is best attempted earlier in the spring (colder temps) and slightly later in the day (once it has its first sun hit).
Peering over the edge. This line has as a very serious feeling of commitment. We only know of it being skied 4-5 times, though given the local ethic of quiet crushers there very well be more descents to its history. Regardless, limited information gave it a very exploratory feel. We knew once we rapped in, the only way out was down.
Initial rappel into the Y Couloir on Ypsilon
Slung horn for our second anchor on the rappel into the Y Couloir
Dan Crist in the top of the Y Couloir, Mount Ypsilon. The angle is sustained at 50+ degrees throughout.
Two edges are better than one in terrain and conditions like this. An ice axe in hand is even better. Y Couloir, Mount Ypsilon.
Overall thoughts on the Y Couloir: This is a serious line with serious consequence. A fall anywhere above the ice pitch would very likely send you careening down with pretty much no chance for self arrest and then send you rocketing out and over the 150’ + vertical ice pitch in the choke. This line demands respect and caution. Every movement requires complete focus. With the conditions we found, even well executed hop turns often resulted in 10-15’ of sliding before I could get my edges to engage. I self belayed and side slipped/stepped about half of this terrain. The glory of the turns is not worth the consequence of losing control here. I was unwilling to settle for anything less than 100% confidence in each movement. Dan and I reminded each other that good style can be chiseled down to not having SAR drag your carcass off of the apron.
Ypsilon and the Y Couloir viewed from Trail Ridge Road. Certainly a crown line of Rocky Mountain National Park.
I had to work the next day, but I just could not get the Notch off my mind. I reached out to several potential partners as I had some flexibility in my schedule the following week and the weather forecast looked to be holding for the best. Jeff Dobronyi, another IFMGA Mountain Guide who had recently located himself in the Front Range, was up for the task. We both rearranged the puzzle pieces of our schedules and set a date for Tuesday, May 30th. Once again, again, I set an alarm for 00:30 and picked Jeff up on my way through Boulder. At 03:30 we were back at the Longs Peak TH and on our way up to Chasm Lake. The night before my first attempt, a few days prior, I barely slept. I was restlessly envisioning every possible way to blow a turn down the couloir or while traversing Broadway Ledge and taking the 1,000’ free fall to my demise. I was unsure whether the traverse would go on skis, but I had a glimmer of hope/anxiety that it would be skiable. After my recon mission with Dan, I came to terms with the fact that the Broadway traverse would need to be booted, which put my mind at ease. I also knew that the snow conditions in the Notch proper would be ideal… firm, but edgeable and predictable. This time I slept soundly albeit too shortly, though I felt confident in how the day would go. My only question was the steep slope connecting the top of the couloir to the upper snow field which had a more due Easterly aspect and would get the most direct sun exposure. We timed it a couple hours earlier this time to mitigate this hazard and I also knew there was opportunity to belay or rappel across this section if needed.
Looking back into the Longs Peak cirque after linking up the Notch Couloir (A) and Flying Dutchman (B).
This time we were at the top of the Notch (at the saddle between Kepplinger’s & the Notch Couloir) right at 08:30. We checked in one last time and were both 100% psyched on skiing the line back to Broadway. Even if the snow was rotting in the sun on Broadway, we felt confident in our ability to safely reverse the ledge on belay wherever needed. We made some nice, steep corn turns down the upper snowfield. As we approached the steep slope leading back into the depths of the Notch Couloir, we opted to establish and anchor and rappel down the steep face that had indeed seen a bit too much sun exposure. One 40m single strand rappel got us to the top of the ice step. We established a second anchor and rappeled 20m into the hallway. One more 20m rappel from a solid horn got us down through the choke and into skiable terrain. All three rappels were skis-on and we left quality anchors for the sake of posterity.
About to enter the upper snowfield of the Notch Couloir. We found exceptional corn skiing up here with some serious exposure.
Jeff at the first rappel. The slope below is steep (~45 degrees) but skiable if conditions are stable. Losing an edge due to even a small wet snow avalanche here would be very consequential.
Second rappel anchor
Jeff at the third and final rappel. You can see how Jeff was able to thoroughly bounce test this horn while remaining on rappel from the upper anchor.
Once in the main hallway of the Notch Couloir, we enjoyed some exciting and technical steep skiing above the massive exposure of the Lower East Face of Longs. This line is rightfully intimidating. Conditions were better and the angle a bit less steep than Dan and I found in the Y couloir a few days before, but the consequence is just as high. Every movement requires absolute focus and confidence. With the right conditions, it offers an exhilarating and deeply rewarding ski descent.
Looking down at the relentless exposure of the Lower East Face. Blowing it here will win you a 1,000’ free fall down to Chasm Lake. Hop, stop, breathe.
Skiing back across Broadway. We belayed each other the first 40m back across on skis and then transitioned back to boots & crampons for the remainder of the Broadway Ledge.
Jeff leading us back across Broadway
We made our way back to the top of Lamb’s Slide and then crossed over into Flying Dutchman for a fantastic link up to perfect corn skiing down another great RMNP ski descent. We utilized a single strand rappel off the existing anchor atop the ice pitch and it seemed like 20m got us back onto skiable terrain.
Check out instagram for some video recaps of these trips…
